• First, we receive your frame (or fork, or wheel...) in the mail. The box is opened and unpacked, and everything is inspected for damage, just in case. The contents are checked, counted, numbered, and tagged. The box, if it's in good condition, will be reused.

  • Prep work. We first take off all decals. We also plug up as many frame holes as possible, and tape off any places that will not be beadblasted.

    This cyclist wanted his chrome lugs and steel head tube badge preserved. The second picture shows the bike taped off before beadblasting.

  • The frame is now beadblasted and all the paint is removed. Carbon parts and frames are sanded by hand .


    Close-ups of a blasted steel road frame.

  • After paint removal, the frame is cleaned and untaped, then taped again with finer grade painting tape.

  • Paint prep. We hang the frame in the paint room, then wipe it down with a tack rag to remove dust and debris. After the tack rag, the frame is degreased with an adhesive remover.

  • Paint application. The first coat to be applied is an epoxy based primer, usually two coats. The primer is allowed to dry for 10-15 minutes, then the color is applied. The color will go on for 2-4 coats, with roughly five minutes between each coat.



  • During the color stage we perform any lug taping or detailing.


    Different stages in the lug masking process.

  • Decals. Decals are applied during the color stage. This is often the most time-consuming and tedious part of the process. Every decal is applied by hand.

  • After the lug detailing or other color work is done, the frame is clearcoated. Three coats of clear go onto each frame.

  • Setting. The frame is allowed to hang dry for at least 24 hours, sometimes more depending on temperature and humidity. The paint is now in the process of setting up, which goes on for weeks after its application.

  • The finished frame. Once the paint is set up, the bike is repackaged and sent back to its owner.


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