First, we receive your frame (or
fork, or wheel...) in the mail. The box is opened and unpacked, and
everything is inspected for damage, just in case. The contents are
checked, counted, numbered, and tagged. The box, if it's in good condition,
will be reused.
Prep work.
We first take off all decals. We also plug up as many frame holes
as possible, and tape off any places that will not be beadblasted.
This cyclist wanted his chrome lugs
and steel head tube badge preserved. The second picture shows the
bike taped off before beadblasting.
The frame is now
beadblasted and all the paint is removed. Carbon parts and frames
are sanded by hand .
Close-ups of a blasted steel road
frame.
After paint removal, the frame is
cleaned and untaped, then taped again with finer grade painting tape.
Paint prep.
We hang the frame in the paint room, then wipe it down with a tack
rag to remove dust and debris. After the tack rag, the frame is degreased
with an adhesive remover.
Paint application. The first
coat to be applied is an epoxy based primer, usually two coats. The
primer is allowed to dry for 10-15 minutes, then the color is applied.
The color will go on for 2-4 coats, with roughly five minutes between
each coat.
During the color
stage we perform any lug taping or detailing.
Different stages in the lug
masking process.
Decals. Decals are
applied during the color stage. This is often the most time-consuming
and tedious part of the process. Every decal is applied by hand.
After the lug detailing or other
color work is done, the frame is clearcoated. Three coats of clear
go onto each frame.
Setting. The frame is allowed
to hang dry for at least 24 hours, sometimes more depending on temperature
and humidity. The paint is now in the process of setting up, which
goes on for weeks after its application.
The finished frame.
Once the paint is set up, the bike is repackaged and sent back to
its owner.